The Official Report On The London Super Trunk Show 2022

**** PLEASE NOTE, THAT THIS IS A VERY LONG POST WITH A LOT OF CONTENT AND INFO. ALL ORIGINAL WORDS BY JESPER OF SHOEGAZING. ANYTHING I WRITE IN ADDITION WILL BE IN BOLD AND ITALICS****

Last weekend it finally happened. The fourth edition of the London Super Trunk Show took place, a wonderful day that gathered almost 1,200 visitors from around the world, who enjoyed quality shoes in all its shapes and three world championship contests. Here’s a report from the day with loads of photos.

Originally planned to take place two years ago, the pandemic postponed it several times, but now we could move forward with it. Organised by Jesper Ingevaldsson of Shoegazing and Justin FitzPatrick of The Shoe Snob blog, the event took place right in the center of London, on 12 Regent Street just below Piccadilly Circus. Here the event venue Showcase.co is located, the same place as last time, and equally appreciated. It’s located on street level, is bright and airy, and has a bar serving drinks, coffee and snacks. Since we’ve just come out of the pandemic, we were quite uncertain about how the turn up would be, especially since many visitors usually travel in. Already 20 minutes after we’d opened the doors me and Justin looked at each other and could conclude that it was going to be a good day. And it surely was! New visitor record with almost 1,200 in total with much more international visitors than we expected (it was only people from Asia who were fewer than previous years, due to many countries there still having restrictions when one travel back home again etc.), a great atmosphere during the day, lots of shoes being tested and ordered on site and many more ordered the following weeks. The London super trunk is still the meeting place for the quality shoe industry.

The event really had a buzz about it, quite unlike previous years. And that might have been the anticipation of it with 3 years since the last show, people’s eagerness to come out and see shoes in the flesh, but also quite possibly to see many exciting new makers. It was a wonderful feeling to see and feel the enthusiasm for this year’s event. This definitely let us know that we can expect great things from upcoming years and our ideas for expansion!

Almost 1,200 people came in through the doors during the day, an amazing turnout.

The venue is located just below Piccadilly Circus on Regent Street, right next to the entrance to the shoe street Jermyn Street.

Beautiful shoes on often beautiful exhibition tables. Here CNES Shoemaker.

People getting ready for the award shoemaking world champs award ceremony.

We also saw that the trend with content from the event being spread in various channels online grew even further, with lots of photos, films and written conclusions of what one saw and tested during the day was spread, so also those not able to visit could take part partially at least. We also live streamed from the stage happenings and showed the exhibitions (see these films below, unfortunately the two from the shining and award ceremonies had technical issues with black screen half way in) and on Saphir’s Instagram, and videos were shot by among others Kirby Allison for his Youtube-channel later on and by Carréducker for the Independent shoemakers conference. What’s also nice to see is that, albeit certainly not being something like Pitti Uomo, the super trunk day is a day to see many wonderfully dressed persons showcasing classy clothing and of course footwear. We’ll try to show a bit more of these in this article as well.

Three well-dressed in one picture. Gary Tok, author of Master Shoemakers stepping outside, where we had Simran and Joanne from The Garment Girls. Picture: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

The shoemaking world champs shoes were closely studied, filmed and photographed during the day.

Kirby Allison filming for his YouTube channel, where Daniel Wegan of Catella Shoemaker, part of the jury, went through the strengths of the top placed shoes in the world champs in shoemaking.

On the exhibition floor we had ten exhibitors showcasing a wide variety of quality footwear in various price ranges. Chinese premium brand Acme Shoemaker impressed visitors with their absolute top class RTW and MTO offerings (unfortunately they couldn’t travel here themselves due to the covid restrictions still in place in China for people coming back from Europe, so they were represented by Tor Jonsson on site). From India we had Bridlen, with nicely styled shoes Goodyear welted the old style with welt stitching done directly to the insole. Daniel Wegan, former world champion in shoemaking, displayed his Catella Shoemaker brand which offer the absolute best bespoke shoes one can get a hold off. The brand that perhaps created the most buzz was CNES Shoemaker from Vietnam (based in Singapore), who focused on their newest range of hand welted shoes available at about €400.

A table packed with beauties by Acme Shoemaker.

Bridlen’s table with focus on well-made, affordable classics. Pictures: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

A masterpiece by Catella Shoemaker. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

CNES Shoemaker sole work.

Modum Shoes from Germany do things differently, with the use of a 3D scan mobile app to gather data for a personalised last, making it possible to offer a type of bespoke shoes for only €500. Mori of Shoemakers, who are based in Hong Kong and have their hand welted super sleek shoes made in China, was represented by bespoke maker Masaru Okuyama who has been part of starting up the project. Spanish premium and bespoke shoemaker Norman Vilalta has been part of the event before, and his playful creations are always a sight to behold. Same with Paolo Scafora from Italy, with amazing patinas and many designs that one basically can’t see anywhere else, on their fine hand welted footwear. Septieme Largeur from France have Goodyear welted shoes in the €300 price range, all from the classics to bold patinas, look for example on the spectacular blue triple monk strap boots. Another popular exhibitor is the Swedish retailer Skolyx, who showcased a large selection of TLB Mallorca’s praised Artista range, as well as Yanko offerings like their Belgian loafers, boots and sneakers.

Examples of different last shapes from Modum Shoes.

Magnificent Mori of Shoemaker chukka, and more. Picture: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

Norman Vilalta probably took a new record in amount of display samples at a super trunk.

Characteristic stuff by Paolo Scafora, Norvegese and inverted decoration stitches.

Septieme Largeurs table, with one obvious eye catching halo pair.

Skolyx table was fronted with TLB Mallorca Artista shoes, the highly praised midrange line. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

The main partner of the event, the world-leading premium shoe care brand Saphir, of course also exhibited and sold loads of shoe care during the day. A very nice new addition was the free shoe shining service they had set up, where Sam Norsworthy of Tricker’s / The Valet did shoe shine jobs on visitors shoes. Sam was probably the hardest working man on site, don’t know how many pairs he ended up shining during the day but it was many, there was basically a line with folks waiting to take advantage of the service during the whole day. Also exhibiting was partner Bresciani, the Italian sock manufacturer who makes luxurious high-quality socks, and plenty of visitors took the chance to get to know their offerings closer. Finally we had the British tailoring firm Cad & the Dandy on site, who have taken Savile Row by storm with their modern tailoring offering, doing things both in-house and highly affordable Asian-made full bespoke, as well as RTW garments and accessories. Also partnered and who helped us out with lots of things was The Valet, where Tom Beecroft (previously The Jaunty Flaneur) who offer superb shoe care service in London along with among other things alterations tailors and dry cleaner expertise.

Saphir’s table were packed with their shoe care products.

Sam Norwsorthy at Saphir’s table working hard with shining visitors shoes. Picture: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

Socks by Bresciani, like being in a candy shop.

Great overshirts and more by the Cad & the Dandy.

Already 15 minutes after opening in the morning, the three patina finalists sat down at their tables to transform a pair of crust TLB Mallorca Artista shoes into something spectacular, with the use of Saphir leather dyes, creams and waxes. These were John Chung from Singapore, Sony Mai and Toan Junie, who both work for Corthay in France. After five hours of hard work they all presented some spectacular stuff for the jury, who decided to award Toan Junie with the world champion title. His shoe displayed amazing skill, with super smooth transitions, fine word along the leather edges also in difficult corners, hard parts like keeping the sole stitch light coloured at the toes for a lovely blend with the uppers, etc.

The three patina finalists being interviewed. Me to the left, then John Chung, Toan Junie and Sony Mai. Picture: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

Just started painting.

Toan Junie in the works with his shoes.

Toan Junie, the world champion of shoe patina.

Finalist Sony Mai with his final pair.

John Chung with his final pair. Pictures above: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

The final ones. From the left, winning shoe by Toan Junie, then Sony Mai, John Chung.

In the middle of the day the final of the shoe shining world champs took place, and it’s also this time that probably was the most crowded, with hundreds of people in front of the stage area. During 20 minutes Christian Vingsand from Norway, Naoki Ueda from Japan and Ash Samsudin from Singapore shined a brand new Loake 1880 Aldwych shoe. Three professional shoe shiners who showed off their skill, where finally Ash Sam was crowned the winner for his magnificent shine over more or less the entire shoe, manage to highlight the leather’s beauty and character.

The final of the world championships in shoe shining is about to start.

Engaged crowd. Picture: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

Hard work.

The final pairs. From the left, winning shoe by Ash Sam, then Christian Vingsand, Naoki Ueda.

World champion in shoe shining, Ash Sam.

Christian Vingsand with his final shoe.

Naoki Ueda with his fine work. Pictures: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

The first thing that visitors saw when entering the venue was 30 red brown longwing full brogues. These were the entries in the world championships in shoemaking, and it sure was a spectacular site. A wide variety of interpretations of the models were on display, from extreme high heeled exhibition pieces to clearly utilitarian chunky ones with thick soles and brutal heels, and all in between. Shoemakers from 19 countries had pushed themselves to their absolute max. The jury of shoemakers and shoe experts, who during the afternoon before the event met to judge all the shoes, awarded the Japanese Wataru Shimamoto with the gold medal, Ken Kataoka from Japan silver, and South Korean-based Kenjiro Kawashima. Three very different entries, who all certainly achieved top class stuff on both difficulty, execution and design. What set Shimamoto apart in the end was the extremely flawless making and finishing. The trio will share a prize sum of £6,000 which comes from sponsors Kirby Allison, Master Shoemakers and Parker Schenecker, brother of shoe entusiast Edmund Schenecker who sadly passed away last year. The three also will get a bespoke handmade awl made according to their wishes by Phil Norsworthy. You can see more of the top three in this article, and much more of them and all the other contest shoes will come in two huge articles later on. These shoes along with the patina winner will go on a world tour later this year, will be more info about that coming as well.

We are already talking about next year’s edition of this event, plan some exciting new things and look to further develop it all. For now, thanks to everyone who were part in making last Saturday a day to remember!

The 30 world champs in shoemaking entries. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

The winning shoe, by Wataru Shimamoto, who now is based in Tokyo with his own brand Orma Shoemaker, previously worked for Il Micio in Florence. Picture: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

The most spectacular entry this year was likely this second placed one by Ken Kataoka.

One of my favourites was Christophe Corthay’s entry, who finished fourth, with this seriously amazing bottom work, with a sole pattern made entirely of shaped leather pieces.

A very cool shoe tree handle by Mongolian maker Ganbaatar Batjarga.

Another cool sole, by Marat Ablakov from Kazakhstan.

One awl by Phil Norsworthyn all top three placed shoemakers will receive. He shared also had a small spot on Catella’s table where he displayed his tools

Close-up of one handle.

The gold medal of this contest, going to Japan. Pictures above: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

Crowded.

Lovely shoes on one of the visitors, I believe they are made by Atelier du Tranchet.

Well worn boots.

Casual style visitors…

…and more formally dressed ones.

Lots of shoes were tested during the day.

Masaru Okuyama talking to customers at Mori’s table. Latest pictures: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

Lovely loafer by Mori.

Fiddle back waist.

Nice balmoral oxford.

Sneakers and trainers by Skolyx, with impressive specs for the price.

Yanko Belgian loafers. Pictures: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

TLB Mallorca Artista rubber sole. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

Acme Shoemaker sample shoes.

Black panther seamless wholecut.

Back of the same shoe.

Great split toe derby. Pictures: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

Exclusive shoe horns in metal that all who ordered Acme shoes during the day received. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

Museum calf leather loafer by Bridlen.

Nice sole with metal toe taps.

Explanation of construction to visitors.

Cat’s paw heel. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

Bresciani’s table full of socks.

Sock talk.

Umbrella’s and shirts on Cad & the Dandy’s table.

Some of Saphir’s range of products.

Italian based bespoke shoemaker Paul Bogdan Bietanu.

Corthay wholecuts on a visitor.

British bespoke shoemaker Nicholas Templeman talking with Paul Schenecker who flew in from Florida.

Not every event one see visitor down on the floor to shoot photos. Pictures: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

As last time we had table standing more in the middle of the room with visitors circulating around them, for a more dynamic atmosphere.

Shine contest.

A lot of effort to shine a shoe properly in just 20 minutes.

It’s apparently fun to do the jury review. Justin Fitzpatrick, Tom Beecroft, and me. Pictures: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

Win.

Katia Moura, Business Development and Content Manager at Saphir, together with shine champion Ash Sam.

Patina created.

John Chung painting shoes. Picture: Saphir / Christopher L Proctor

The finished patinas.

Very cool jodphur by Norman Vilalta.

Argentinian-Spanish flair. Pictures: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

A lovely lazyman.

Catella Shoemaker adelaide, about as good as it gets.

Black plain cap toe oxford.

Fine making. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

Crowded around Paolo Scafora’s table. This what it looked like around many exhibitors’ tables large parts of the day, which made it a bit tricky to be able to take photos at times.

Talks with visitors.

Classic Scafora bottom.

Scafora samples.

Blue beauties by Septieme Largeur. Pictures: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

After and before.

Unlined loafer.

By CNES table.

An alligator oxford. Picture: Patrick “Ticho” Gessner

Twisted strap loafer.

Modum Shoes from Germany, bespoke for those who can’t afford bespoke.

Milad Mafi of Modum Shoes with an interested visitor. Pictures: Mori of Shoemakers / Austin Lam Tin Hang

Various oxfords.

We already look forward to next year’s event!

LIVE STREAMING

Unfortunately some sort of technical issue resulted in black screens a bit into two of the videos below, we deeply apologise for this. Everything looked fine during the whole filming, and was controlled when we started the stream, but some issue appeared a bit in which wasn’t evident for us when shooting.